The Real Deal Polish

This June I had the opportunity to visit my family in South-Eastern Poland, in the area known as Rzeszow. Basically my entire family is here, as my parents had met and married in the United States. At the time Poland was under communist rule, but many freedoms were relaxed as the Solidarity movement gained prominence in 1980. My father left Poland in December, 1981, the very last day before martial law was declared and travel outside of the country was completely restricted. So by a difference of one day my fate was sealed: I was born in the United States.

Church near the Rzeszow city center.

Rzeszow is a rapidly growing region with a diverse set of industries and areas. It is a relatively small region, both economically and in terms of population, but European Union funds have drastically changed the local landscape. In fact, Poland and Bulgaria are the only EU countries whose economies grew in spite of the financial crisis. The main city of Rzeszow is prized by foreigners, especially those from Western Europe. Its central streets, especially May the 3rd Street, are paved with cobblestones and closed to traffic. This, as well as its aesthetically pleasing buildings, make it a very enjoyable place to visit, meet with friends, or shop in.

I will have more pictures for you of some of these areas in a future post. For now, I'd like to look at some of the notable monuments in the area.

This is a major monument right near the city center. It stands in front of several major intersections that must be passed in order to drive around Rzeszow, so the city residents know it well. This is a communist-era monument to the liberation of Rzeszow from the Germans during World War II. Notice the stark "brutalist" architecture that is reminiscent of other such monuments placed all throughout Poland and other Eastern European countries involved in the conflict. The defeat of the German army by Soviet forces on the Eastern Front was used for many years as a propoganda tool to justify communist occupation of Poland after the war. For this reason, and the concrete construction of the monument, many residents now view the monument as more humorous than inspirational.

Closeup of the monument. Note that both Polish and Soviet soldiers are depicted.

Now juxtapose this to another, more recent World War II monument built across the street from the one I just described. This monument celebrates General Władysław Sikorsky. This Polish general worked with the Polish government-in-exile in London. He died in 1943 in a plane crash that is now widely believed to have been an assassination. The Western government-in-exile was seen as a force of opposition to communist rule after the war, especially after it called for an investigation into the Katyn massacre of Polish officers by Soviet authorities.

This new monument reflects the changing political climate in Poland after the collapse of communism. For many years communist authorities suppressed the discussion of Soviet atrocities or the questioning of its authority. Instead it emphasized the cooperation of Polish and Soviet forces in the liberation of Poland from NAZI control.

Closeup of General Sikorsky.

Nearby fountain.

While Rzeszow is the "primary" city in the area, it supports hundreds of other small towns and villages across the area (and vice-versa). My mother's side of the family lives in nearby Budziwoj. This village is a caricature of the traditional Polish agricultural community. There are vast fields, and everyone has chickens (if not a cow or two).

View from my window. So peaceful!

Countryside in Budziwoj.

Yet even this idealic area is slowly transforming. It is nearly impossible to make a good living on agriculture, especially after Poland joined the European Union. The problem was that the EU uses subsidised agriculture, and there were as many farmers in Poland as all of the original states of the EU (ie Western Europe). So things like milk quotas were established to control the food market. Most households now have at least one person working "in the city" (Rzeszow) and use agriculture for additional income or simply to grow their own food. Most of the younger generation is going into higher education. This new generation is unlikely to keep any livestock or harvest produce in the traditional manner. Adding a boom in construction, Budziwoj may be a suburb within a decade or two.

My cousin and uncle cutting some grass for the cows.

Fear me, mortals!

I also have a field. It's the best field ever. Check out the corresponding videos for more info, and a historical overview of the area.

Ok, so it's not live... I got a little carried away.

First person view of a tractor ride!

Tree marking the start of my awesome field.

If you go far enough through the fields of Budziwoj, you will reach Boguchlala (or "Praise God"). This is a more of a suburb, somewhat similar to something you'd see in the United States. For pics of this, you will have to come back for another post!

Bridge through the fields of Budziwoj and Boguchlala.

Looks safe, don't it? Glad I know how to swim!

Small river running in between the two towns.

View of Boguchlala's church from the fields.

My grandmother's backyard garden in Boguchlala. Seriously!

A Siberian cat. Not domestic to Poland, my family just has one because it's so cute and fluffy!

Check back for more epic Polish updates. Coming up next time:

-How to make pierogies.
-Epic story of my grandmother's childhood during World War II.
-Rzeszow, Krakow, and possibly Wroclaw.
-Interview with my Aunt, a distinguished professor and published expert on Polish economic affairs and the European Union.
-Polish beer!